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18 Things About Do I Need To Seal Polyblend Non Sanded Grout | Grout Sealer

  • If you’re working with an install pro who is a big fan of a particular premixed brand/type and who can clearly explain why the benefits would outweigh the added costs and guarantee good results, then sure go ahead. However, I’ve never met such a person. The only folks I have met who are fans of premixed grouts are salespeople and the occasional DIY homeowner who’s also a big fan of “as seen on TV” gadgets. - Source: Internet
  • I’ve experimented with lots of ’em, and my favorite by far (so far at least) is Mapei “Ultracolor Plus FA“. It’s a highly modified cement-based formula that uses extra-fine silica and polymer additives. It can be used for tight 1/16-in joints or superwide 3/4-in gaps. It doesn’t shrink or crack as it dries and cures. It’s very dense, and it is pre-sealed. - Source: Internet
  • SANDED grout is also pretty simple. It’s just superfine portland cement with pigmented color and added silica sand for density and strength. It comes boxed or bagged as a powder ready to be mixed with water before use. - Source: Internet
  • In theory, pre-mixed grout takes the guesswork out of how much water to use when mixing up batches of traditional dry powdered mix. It also eliminates the actual mixing work. Finally, you can get pre-mixed grouts with sealants or other additives that advertise added water and stain resistance. - Source: Internet
  • NO grout is “goof proof”! Installing grout correctly is pretty straightforward and simple-seeming in theory. But in reality, it takes quite a bit of practice and skill to get pro results. There are lots of subtle ways to really screw up any grouting job. Professional installers have lots of learned tricks and techniques to prevent all of these potential problems. - Source: Internet
  • EPOXY grout is completely different. It’s not made from cement. It is instead made of epoxy resin mixed with color pigments (kinda like super thick colored glue). It comes in buckets and has to be mixed with a chemical hardener right before use. - Source: Internet
  • The main limitation for sanded grout come from the fact that it contains sand. So, it’s too abrasive to be used with polished glass or delicate porcelain, clay, or painted tiles. Sanded grout (especially darker colors) can be more prone to efflorescence (whitish scale that gives a blotchy look) or color shade variations. These problems can happen when minerals or pigments leach out of the cement and sand grout mix at different rates as it dries and cures. - Source: Internet
  • Other highly modified dry-mix grouts that I’ve tried have had at least one or more install challenges. For example PolyBlend’s “Prism Performance Grout” has most of the same features in theory, but in practice it has an annoyingly short working time before drying in the bucket. And PolyBlend’s “PolyBlend Plus” formulation tends to stick to tile surfaces, and so needs careful attention to prevent difficult to remove grout haze. - Source: Internet
  • Grout is NOT waterproof! Neither is tile, actually, but the grout joints between tiles are where most moisture wicks through in wet areas like shower floors or tub surround walls. Tile and grout obviously blocks most of the water that sprays onto it. Grout will however absorb some moisture and transfer this moisture to whatever substrate the tile is laid on. - Source: Internet
  • If you have a shower or tub surround that has a proper waterproofing layer behind the tile, then this isn’t a problem. But if your shower wall or tub surround tile was installed on the cheap with the tile set directly on drywall, then this will definitely be a problem. Same thing for shower floors and curbs. If the underlying waterproofing isn’t done correctly then there is no tile or grout combination that will prevent eventual water damage. - Source: Internet
  • Epoxy grouts can also be a real nightmare to work with. For example, epoxy grouts have VERY short working times and also have a VERY unforgiving setting time window. And remember that epoxy is essentially super-strong glue, so you’re pretty much screwed if you miss the window for fully wiping it off a tile surface before it sets. Also, epoxy will fill literally any crack or even pinpoint-sized hole, so is very difficult to use with anything other than perfectly smooth glazed ceramic or glass tile. Finally, it is by far the most expensive grout you can buy for a project (like Ferrari vs Kia expensive). - Source: Internet
  • Should you use dry-mix SANDED or UNSANDED grout? Yes, almost certainly. Any competent pro installer will have lots of experience using straight unsanded or sanded Mapei or PolyBlend mixes They’ll be able to control the consistency of the mix for a trouble-free install. They will also be able to use well-practiced techniques to help ensure perfect results. And if you need extra stain protection for a backsplash or extra easy cleaning for a shower or kitchen floor, etc, then there are lots of good proven sealants and also many dry-mix options with sealant additives to match these and other needs. - Source: Internet
  • UNSANDED grout is the simplest. It’s just superfine portland cement with added pigments for color. It comes boxed or bagged as a powder ready to be mixed with water just before use. - Source: Internet
  • Have a talk with your installer if you have questions about what kind of grout should be used for your particular project. It’s the equivalent of talking straight to the plane’s pilot. Ask ’em what grout they plan to use, and why. They should be able to answer with a clear explanation for why a particular grout is best for your job. If not, then get a different installer. - Source: Internet
  • And finally, TRUST YOUR INSTALLER! If you’ve hired a competent pro for your reno project, then presumably you trust their experience and skill. If some designer or rando salesperson at a tile shop or hardware store suggests a particular type of grout for your project, ask ’em if they’ve ever actually installed it themselves. Here’s an analogy. Would you take advice from a ticket agent on how to fly a plane, just because they work at the airport? - Source: Internet
  • There is no magic fix that can make grout waterproof. There is no sealant that will make it completely impermeable to moisture. Sealants can make grout a bit more water resistant, but not waterproof. Waterproofing is done behind the tiles, not between them. - Source: Internet
  • Should you use PRE-MIXED grout? Again, please don’t. Forcing an experienced tile pro to use a premix is like not allowing a racing team to tune their own car. Any benefits that a specific premixed product might advertise (sealant additives, color options, anti-efflorescence guarantees, etc etc) can also be found in a dry grout mix. There is no need to pay extra for a grout mix that simply has the water already added to it. - Source: Internet
  • Epoxy grouts have traditionally only been used for industrial and commercial applications. This is because epoxy grout is almost waterproof and therefore is also nearly impossible to stain once fully cured. So, it’s a great option for commercial kitchens, tile floors in schools or restaurants or bars, etc etc. - Source: Internet
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